HOW TO insert a lapped zipper

A new cushion cover pattern called POWDER PUFF requires you to insert a zipper using the lapped method.  Here's how you do it.... 

1. The seam in the centre back has a 1.5cm seam allowance.  Stitch the seam leaving it open between the balance marks.  

2. Press the seam open including the center part.

3. Attach your zipper foot.  With the right side facing up position your zipper underneath the opening, unzip and pin the left side in place close to the folded edge as shown.

4. Stitch close to the folded edge holding your zipper underneath so the stitching and the zipper are even all the way along.  
 

5. When you get close to the other end, stop, lift up the foot and zip up the zipper.  With the zipper foot down continue stitching to the end of the opening.

6. Turn and stitch across the end, in this case 12mm from the first line of stitching.

7. Turn again and with the zipper closed stitch along the other side 1cm from the folded edge holding the fabric in place so both the stitching and zipper placement are even.

 
8. When you get close to the end, stop, lift up the zipper foot and open your zipper.  With the zipper foot down continue stitching to the end of the opening.

9. Turn and stitch across the end to meet up with your starting point. 

10. Give it a press and you're done. 

There are many ways to attach a zipper and lots of zipper tutorials around; I did a quick search and found some great references....

Sew Mama Sew!

 This is for a centred zipper

  sew? i knit!

My arch enemy - the invisible zipper!

Costume Design Blog

Shows how to sew a zipper in by hand; handy to know.

The Messy Method 

Lots of references for sewing a lapped zipper including links to a few learn to sew books.

Powder Puff

Vintage style for Modern girls.

A promotional shot for the 1957 film Silk Stockings features the utterly gorgeous Cyd Charisse seated on what looks like a giant powder puff....I totally approve!
  
I got all inspired and created the POWDER PUFF cushion cover. It's not quite as big as Cyd's, but with a finished diameter of 58cm it's just the right size for a quick get-away.

 The pattern for the POWDER PUFF is now available from my Etsy shop.  For this version I cut the front panels in the same fabric alternating between the right and wrong sides but you could also make it up in contrasting prints.  

  
For the cushion inner I re-purposed an old feather doona; not, it turns out, an indoor job!  The printed sateen twill came from Tessuti and the Liberty print for the back was found at L'uccello.

 

Charlie is also wearing the TIE SIDE knickers made up in a Liberty print called August Rose.

HOW TO sew a blind hem by hand

When you hand sew a blind hem it needs to be neat, even and invisible and if you're thinking of making a LICKETY-SPLIT SKIRT, MINNIE MINI, BUSTLE BACK MINI or a pair of FLAPPER SHORTS you'll definitely need to know how.  It's super easy, here's how you do it.... 

1. If your making any of the above you will have overlocked around the edge and mitred the corners. Use pins to hold your hem in place.
 

2. Lightly press the hem allowance all the way around, in the case of all the styles listed above it's 5cm.
 

3. Select a thread colour as close to your fabric as you can, thread your needle and make a knot in the other end.  With the wrong side facing up your needle should go under the edge of the hem by 3 millimeters and through, careful not to catch the fabric underneath.

Gently pull the thread till you feel the knot stop against the underside. 
 

5. Now catch a very small amount of fabric directly above this initial stitch just above where the hem would sit.  In the same motion bring your needle up through the hem 1cm to the right of the first stitch and 3 millimeters inside the edge, don't catch the fabric underneath.  Gently pull the thread all the way through the fabric.

6. Repeat step 5 and continue all the way around the hem in the same way.  I've zoomed in and highlighted the second shot so you can see the stitch more clearly.

7. On the right side your stitches should be barley visible and on the wrong side you will only see a small vertical stitch every centimeter.
 

My tips....

Firstly don't try to have enough thread on the needle to finish the entire hem in one go, better to stop and start and avoid getting your thread all tangled.

Secondly, get comfortable.  I love hand sewing but I do realise not everyone finds it quite so relaxing.  I normally drive to the park, wind down my window and off I go.  Find a spot where you can completely relax, good lighting also helps!  

Must See Events!

Polish Poster Art 1952-84 

An exhibition of POLISH POSTER ART is on show until the 26th of May at the Ian Potter Museum of Art located within the Melbourne University campus.

The example above was created for the release of the Italian film Scandal in Sorrento starring of course Sophia Loren.

While most of the 65 examples relate to movie releases also included are posters advertising local craft fairs, national festivals, circus performances, operas and plays.  All historically significant and utterly beautiful, I highly recommend a visit.

Hollywood Costume 

Opening tomorrow at ACMI and running until the 18th of August HOLLYWOOD COSTUME is a must see for anyone interested in the art of Costume Design.  Presented previously at the Victoria and Albert museum in London it was over five years in development and is said to be the most comprehensive exhibition ever created about film costume design. 

I've volunteered and worked at ACMI for a few years now and yesterday I was lucky enough to have a sneak peek at the exhibition and attend a private lecture with the head curator Deborah Nadoolman Landis.  Looking at some of these iconic costumes and hearing the story of how the collection was pulled together I couldn't help but be moved.

Of course there are some amazing highlights including two dresses made especially for Marylin Monroe.  More beautiful than I could ever have imagined Marylin's sun-ray pleat halter dress from The Seven Year Itch designed by William Travilla sits at the far end of the gallery and not far away the beaded cocktail dress designed by Australian Orry Kelly from Some Like It Hot...she was so tiny! 

There is of course a complementary film program being screened in the ACMI cinemas and a highlight for me will be seeing Breakfast at Tiffany's on the big screen....maybe several times.  Audrey's iconic little black dress, designed by Hubert De Givenchy, is also included in the exhibition.

Breakfast At Tiffany's
Sat 4 May 2013, 11am
Sun 5 May 2013, 11am
Mon 6 May 2013, 1.30pm
Tue 7 May 2013, 2.30pm
Sat 11 May 2013, 11am
Sun 12 May 2013, 11am
Mon 13 May 2013, 1.30pm
Tue 14 May 2013, 2.30pm 

Retro Beachwear

Movies are an endless source of inspiration and Gidget Goes Hawaiian, released in 1961, is a brilliant reference for checking out American surf and beach style of the day.

Inspired I fashioned a retro style two-piece from some vintage feedsack fabric found at L'uccello.  It combines an adaptation of the classic BLOOMER with THE BANDEAU.  

For the BLOOMER I added some extra length to the front and back rise.  The leg and waist openings are finished with satin bias binding and a HOW TO can be found right here.