30.4.13

HOW TO sew a blind hem by hand

When you hand sew a blind hem it needs to be neat, even and invisible and if you're thinking of making a LICKETY-SPLIT SKIRT, MINNIE MINI, BUSTLE BACK MINI or a pair of FLAPPER SHORTS you'll definitely need to know how.  It's super easy, here's how you do it.... 

1. If your making any of the above you will have overlocked around the edge and mitred the corners. Use pins to hold your hem in place.
 

2. Lightly press the hem allowance all the way around, in the case of all the styles listed above it's 5cm.
 

3. Select a thread colour as close to your fabric as you can, thread your needle and make a knot in the other end.  With the wrong side facing up your needle should go under the edge of the hem by 3 millimeters and through, careful not to catch the fabric underneath.


Gently pull the thread till you feel the knot stop against the underside. 
 

5. Now catch a very small amount of fabric directly above this initial stitch just above where the hem would sit.  In the same motion bring your needle up through the hem 1cm to the right of the first stitch and 3 millimeters inside the edge, don't catch the fabric underneath.  Gently pull the thread all the way through the fabric.



6. Repeat step 5 and continue all the way around the hem in the same way.  I've zoomed in and highlighted the second shot so you can see the stitch more clearly.



7. On the right side your stitches should be barley visible and on the wrong side you will only see a small vertical stitch every centimeter.
 

My tips....

Firstly don't try to have enough thread on the needle to finish the entire hem in one go, better to stop and start and avoid getting your thread all tangled.

Secondly, get comfortable.  I love hand sewing but I do realise not everyone finds it quite so relaxing.  I normally drive to the park, wind down my window and off I go.  Find a spot where you can completely relax, good lighting also helps!  

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